• Adhesive & Spreader / Casting plaster / Small Tool or filling knife
  • Small ½ paintbrush / Hammer & nails / Screwdriver & screws
  • Chalk line / Tape measure & pencil / Mitre box / Sharp Hand saw
  1. Make sure all contact surfaces are sound, clean and free from grease.
  2. Wall and ceiling paper must be removed and paint roughed up to provide a good key.
  3. To position the cornice correctly it is helpful to have pencil guidelines around the walls and ceiling, to the dimensions indicated in the brochure (making adjustments for uneven plastered ceilings and walls).
  4. Fix nails in the wall at 600mm at the cornice wall depth as a temporary support for the cornice. Repeat this all round the room.
  5. The cornice is fixed with adhesive and for added security screwed using rust proof screws to the wall and to ceiling joists. The ceiling joists can easily be located by probing with a nail inside the ceiling guideline where marks would eventually be hidden by the cornice. The joist positions can be marked in pencil outside the guidelines for ease of location when actually fixing the cornice.
  6. Commence fixing of cornice at an internal corner and ideally with a patterned cornice you should choose the one that is least seen when entering the room, because this mitre will be less noticeable if a pattern match cornice is used. Having mitred the ends that form the corner spread a continuous layer of adhesive on both edges of the cornice where they will be in contact with the walls and ceiling. Then supported on the nails press on the cornice edges and squeeze the cornice into the angle between the wall and ceiling as tightly as possible and fix nails into the ceiling to temporarily support the cornice.
  7. Check that the cornice is sitting correctly according to the dimensions and adjust nails accodingly. It is very important to accurately align cornice joints prior to screwing and before the adhesive sets.
  8. Fix to the wall and ceiling using rust proof screws (never rely on the adhesive alone to fix the cornice)
  9. The excess adhesive squeezed from the horizontal joints between the wall and the ceiling should be removed with a filling knife and the joints made good.
  10. The vertical gaps at joints, angles and mitred ends should be filled with casting plaster as follows: - Mix a small quantity (if you mix it too thick you will waste more than you use) of casting plaster in water to a milky consistency. Thoroughly brush the cornice joints with a wet paintbrush, then fill the joint with plaster. Clean off excess material from the joint with a plasterer's small tool or filling knife, then brush away loose material. (Dentil block and other mouldings can be sculpted since the casting plaster sets very quickly).
  11. Any splashes of adhesive on the wall, ceiling or cornice face should be washed off immediately.
  12. When dry (usually about 24 hours under normal conditions) the cornice can be painted.
  1. Place the cornice upside down in the mitre block with the wall edge uppermost flat against the side and the ceiling edge flat against the base.
  2. Fix small battens (not necessary if you make your mitrebox as below) to the mitre box base set away from the upright the ceiling projection dimension shown in the brochure, to ensure 45 degree cut.
  3. Cut the mitres with a fine toothed saw. Any inaccuracies are made good when the joint is filled.
16 Hamm Moor Lane
Addlestone. KT15 2SD
Tel. 01932 848323
Fax. 01932 820103

Showroom Opening Hours
Mon - Fri 9am to 5.00pm
Sat Closed
Sun Closed